How Should a Men's Jacket Fit? Shoulders, Sleeves and Length Explained
A jacket that fits looks more expensive than it is; a jacket that does not fit looks cheap whatever it cost. The four points that decide it are the shoulder, the chest, the sleeve and the length. They apply to every jacket, but the ideal differs between a bomber, a quilted jacket, a blazer and a coat. Here is how to check each one.
The Four Fit Points
- Shoulder: the seam sits on the edge of your shoulder bone. If it hangs past it, the jacket is too big; if it pulls inward, too small.
- Chest: you can close the jacket without pulling, and slide a flat hand inside comfortably.
- Sleeve: ends at the wrist bone for casual jackets and coats; shows a little shirt cuff on a blazer.
- Length: depends on the style; see below.
How a Bomber Jacket Should Fit
A bomber is short by design. The ribbed hem should sit at the waistband of your pants, the shoulders should be exact, and the body should be close but not tight; you should be able to wear a sweater underneath. An oversized bomber is cut roomy on purpose; order your regular size. See men's jackets.
How a Quilted or Puffer Jacket Should Fit
Warmth comes from trapped air, so a quilted or puffer jacket should have room for a mid-layer without being baggy. The hem should cover the belt; a longer hem is warmer. The sleeves should cover the wrist when your arms are bent. See winter jackets and puffer jackets.
How a Blazer Should Fit
The most precise fit of all. Shoulders exact, the top button closing without an X-shaped pull, the sleeve showing about a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff, and the hem covering the seat of your pants. A blazer that fits at the shoulder can be taken in at the waist by a tailor; one that is wrong at the shoulder cannot be fixed. See blazers.
How a Coat Should Fit
A wool or long coat goes over a blazer or a sweater, so it needs a little more room in the chest and shoulder than a blazer. The sleeve should cover the sleeve of what is underneath. Length is a style choice: mid-thigh is modern, knee-length is classic and warmest. See long coats.
When to Size Up
Only when you plan to wear a thick layer underneath a winter jacket, or when the size chart puts you between sizes and you have broad shoulders. Never size up to get a longer length; choose a longer style instead.
Fit Tips for Men Over 50
A regular fit sits better than slim, a slightly longer hem is more flattering and more comfortable, and a jacket with a little structure in the shoulder gives a stronger line. Navy, olive, black and charcoal are the colors that work with everything.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should a jacket be tight or loose?
Neither. It should follow the body with enough room for one layer underneath and no pulling at the buttons or across the back.
How do I check the size chart?
Measure your chest at the widest point and compare it with the chart on the product page. Every jacket has its own chart.
Can I return a jacket that does not fit?
Yes, within 30 days of delivery. US shipping is free.
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